Window-Licking on the Left Bank

Today's forays in Paris included much shopping and "window-licking" on Rive Gauche, or the Left Bank. We started out at the Rue Cler market again to get more of those beignets sucre (sorry, but that just sounds better than sugar doughnuts), but we were disappointed to find that they were gone. I guess we were a bit late for breakfast as we didn 't arrive until about 10:00. Again, we stayed up way too late last night. Oh how my mind works differently on vacation. They did have a different kind of sugar doughnuts, but they just weren't the same. I had another pain au chocolat for breakfast today, and I bought one for tomorrow too. For some reason I guess I feared that the city might run out of these pastries that can be found in almost every store that sells any kind of food. I'm sure it is all because of my mom's philosophies of stocking up on ketchup and toilet paper. Hey, we are always prepared though. Have you ever seen the size of our purses? See me if you are ever in dire need of Advil, a Band-Aid, hand sanitizer, migraine medicine, a bottle of water... (Never mind. The contents of my purse deserve a post of their own.)


Next we hopped on the metro to the stop closest to Notre Dame. Okay, it wasn't quite a hop. It was more like we tried to insert each of our last seven tickets, and still, none of them worked. For the third time we took them to the metro clerk to get it fixed. She allowed us through the gate, but at our connection, they didn't work AGAIN. The window there was closed so we went upstairs, threw away $15 worth of metro tickets, and just bought new ones. I'm telling you, my peace of mind was totally worth $15 by that point.

Travel Tip #25: Sometimes the things you wouldn't dare spend money on at home are totally worth it on vacation.

We finally made it to our destination, the bouquinistes along the Seine at Notre Dame. I wanted to browse their old book collections and purchase a few, but realizing they were all in French, I quickly changed my mind. It would be like those fake books people put on their shelves for decoration. What is the point? A book is meant to be savored and enjoyed, not just looked at. I make a big deal out of this at the beginning of the year with my students. It always surprises me how many of them admit to having fake books. And all the other stuff the bouquinistes sell at their stands is so touristy, so we didn't end up getting anything there.


Travel Tip #26: Don't buy only touristy things. Buy things that you can display in your home, wear, or even better--EAT!

The bouquinistes along the Seine pay less than 100 euros a year for renting their space. The waiting list to become one is 8 years long.

We got a good look at Notre Dame during the day after seeing it at night on the boat ride, and wedecided that's all we have time for. Since we had to cut that out on our day of arrival, we are not going to be able to go in it. I have seen it before, and it wasn't on Andrew's list of must-sees. Au revoir Quasimodo.

Notre Dame Cathedral took nearly two centuries to be completed.

This masterpiece of Gothic architecture allows more space for stained-glass windows.

Travel Tip #27: Prioritize your sight-seeing. There just isn't enough time for everything.

Following Rick Steves' Left Bank Walk, we strolled down rue de Seine, boulevard St. Germain, and rue Saint-Sulpice. During all of my window shopping, I noticed one of the best things the French do for their shoppers. They put a card in their window that lists the price of each item displayed in the window. So you think to yourself either "I would like to see more of this store," or "I am so glad they saved me the embarrassment of looking at the pricetag and immediately walking out of the store."

There were a few must-sees on this walk. We went to Poilane, the best bakery in Paris that is closed on Mondays. Their store is tiny, but I bought a few things to bring back. Can't tell you what because it just might be for one of my readers! Then we went to Maison du Chocolat. Their store is climate controlled and they give you a brochure about their chocolate telling you how to eat it, store it, and what to drink with it. I also bought something here that I can't tell you about---yet. When we walked out of the store, I saw that they had an ice cream stand. I couldn't resist. I ordered one scoop of dark chocolate ice cream on a cone, and I had to stop walking to eat it. It was that good. Actually, it wasn't just good. I'm going to go ahead and say it was the best ice cream I have ever had. Really. And I have had my fair share of ice cream. I'm almost glad I can't just buy it at the grocery store at home. I will just always have to remember that time I was in Paris and had the best ice cream of my life. Mmmm.

I took this from the side of the store in hopes of not making the Parisian women working here really mad.

Travel Tip #28: Savor the delicacies while you can. It just might make it taste even better knowing that you can't buy it back home.

Sometime in the middle of our shopping, we ate lunch at the Luxembourg Gardens. I planned for us to pick up lunch at a market along the way, but before we found one, we found a Subway. Andrew couldn't pass it up. Poor guy. He hasn't had any real meat this entire trip, and this was the closest he could get to actually feeling full. I wish I could say we have been eating at fancy French restaurants and brasseries, but that just isn't our thing. We don't really go for that kind of food or that kind of price. So, the Subway Italian BMT really did hit the spot. Somehow I accidentally threw away the second half of my sandwich that Andrew was going to eat for dinner, but don't worry, he found a McDonalds as a substitute. Yes, we actually went to McDonalds in Paris---and ordered Chicken McNuggets with barbecue sauce. The bag definitely got us some stares on the metro ride home. If Andrew's tennis shoes, shorts, backpack, and buzz cut didn't scream American loud enough, I think the McDonalds bag sealed any doubts.

The Luxembourg Garden is the equivalent of NYC's Central Park.

This is the kind of scenery Parisians experience on their lunch break in the gardens.

Andrew's adorable face looking into the sun. I noticed today that hardly any Parisians wear sunglasses. Andrew claims he doesn't need them. Anyone beg to differ?

Travel Tip #29: Embrace your inner Americanness. I like Papaw's perspective on this.

Our walk led us right back to La Grande Epicerie, so we bought a few more groceries, and I bought the prize for Bloggie Contest #1. It's a selection of yummie French staples so get those comments in. I have so enjoyed reading them. I was going to comment on some of them, but it would mess up the random integer process for choosing the winner. Stephanie and Andrea, it is so good to hear from you. Hope you both are doing well. Dad, I don't know how you raised such a rule-follower, but you have to follow the rules too. Luke, no I didn't want to intimidate you with my dancing skills. I wanted you to have a good time too. It seemed like you found a good alternate date with Gera Milligan though.


We came back to the apartment, and I ate more of those amazing raspberries and my second baguette in two days.

Just in case you weren't aware, this is not the proper way to eat a baguette.

Instead, you should gather the baguette, the best unsalted butter you can find (if you shop at the Fresh Market or Ingles get the kind in the gold and red foil), and follow these directions.


1. If you can stand to wait, let the butter sit out for about ten minutes. It will become just soft enough without losing its form.




2. Then, tear off a piece of the bread. By no means should you ever use a knife. I walked into the kitchen last night and saw a perfectly sliced piece of bread. Definitely the work of an amateur (Andrew).



3. Take the piece of bread and swipe it down the brick of butter. Go on. Get a good chunk on there. If necessary, repeat this step. Just make sure that you don't get so much butter that you can't taste the baguette. The butter should only be a complement to the bread.

4. Mangez! Mangez! Mangez! Repetez! Repetez! Repetez!

Travel Tip #30: En Anglais: Eat! Eat! Eat! Repeat! Repeat! Repeat!

After all of this eating, I planned to venture out on my own tonight (to go to H&M) as Andrew rested. He, however, could not imagine allowing me to do that. I was only going to go two metro stops away, but he wouldn't even consider it. After a bit of negotiation about whether or not there would be enough time to this on Friday, he gave in and said we would go tonight. When I walked in the store, I thought I wasn't going to be successful because everything looked so cheap. I love for clothes to actually be cheap, but not to look cheap of course. Once I tried a few things on, though, I was so excited. I found two, count them, two pants that fit me well. I have such a hard time buying pants. Apparantly, I am porportioned more like the French than the American because I have been known to look for a pair of jeans for months before finding a pair that fit right. I bought a pair of khaki linen pants and brown linen pants, each in different styles, and a white blouse. I can't wait to wear them.

Travel Tip #31: Even if you think it doesn't look good on the hanger, try it on anyway. Sometimes it looks better; sometimes it looks worse.

Unfortunately, I won't be wearing my new clothes tomorrow because it is supposed to rain all day and not even get out of the 50s. We are going on our Normandy tour, and as I thought about it, I realized that it would be a little strange to go to this place in sunny, 70 degree weather. Maybe it will be more appropriate that it is cold and rainy. I'm going to study a little tonight to prepare for tomorrow. I don't know nearly as much about American history as I should.

This week has been a much needed break from the routine of life. I realized today that my worst problem at this moment is trying to decide whether to buy Coco Chanel perfume or Mademoiselle Coco Chanel perfume. That is a surprisingly difficult decision for me. I haven't bought perfume since I bought Vera Wang: The Fragrance at Sephora in California in 2003. I had just gotten engaged and since I couldn't have a Vera Wang wedding dress, I thought I could at least get the perfume. I think the Chanel perfume will be a nice reminder of this blessing of a trip every day back in the States.

Travel Tip #32: Relax! Relax! Relax! Repeat! Repeat! Repeat!

**If for some reason Andrew doesn't make it back to Tennessee, you all should check the Seine River. In case the police don't believe me, it's because he refused to stop calling me "Mon Cherie" in a really creepy voice.